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    娘子關之行
    編者按:感謝作者!讓我也跟著作者的描述去了趟久負盛名的娘子關。娘子關水上人家、關城、娘子關瀑布每到一處,作者都詳盡的描寫,眼前的美麗勝景、深層次的得名由來、歷史典故、以及與之有關的古詩詞引入讓讀者對眼景有了更深的發掘,拓展了知識面,增加了趣味性。語言簡潔優美,值得學習!問好作者!遙祝夏安!


           5月11日,我隨友人一起來到了久負盛名的娘子關。
           按導游的行程安排,我們參觀的第一站,便是娘子關村的水上人家。這里原名葦澤關村,因其坐落于綿河岸畔,水流豐沛,蘆葦叢生故名。當我們走出停車場時,首先映入眼簾的,是一座閣樓。閣樓上那“葦澤天險英雄折腰爭風流,三晉要塞庶民壯舉譜春秋”之楹聯以及雕梁畫棟,引人向往。據說這里有上百個泉眼,屬低溫泉,常年在18° 左右。即使是數九嚴寒的冬季,依然清泉噴涌,終年不息。這里群山環簇,綿河穿底,山有香山之美,水有漓江之秀,集北國風光與江南秀麗于一體,豈能不令人繾綣?那水上人家自然是依山而筑、順水而居,房屋多為石塊壘砌而成,且大部都有著上百年的歷史。水網狀的溪流,沿墻基穿房過戶,隨便走進一戶人家,滿世界都是水。
           沿著石板曲徑和明清古道興隆街信步而行,但見綠樹成蔭,清流潺潺,石橋石板穿街過巷,水草綠茵蔥蔥,曲徑通幽。路邊小田小苑,綠意盎然,春色濃濃。這里家家戶戶的院內,都有泉流奔越,有的還有小瀑,水給了這里靈氣,形成了“人在水上走,水在屋下流”的獨特勝景,故名“水上人家”。古道的年代雖已無計考究,但從這些古色古韻的民居和青石板巷上的坑洼不平、寬窄、大小、高低、先后以及光石如鏡上,仍能讀出它久遠的歷史。聽說這里的人家洗菜洗碗都不用親自動手,把菜和碗存放于籃子里,放在泉流下,不久便會沖洗得干干凈凈,由此可見水流湍急。沿巷里,店鋪林立,吆喊聲聲。那“娘子脆餅”,輕薄如紙,馨香四溢,令人垂涎。那上水石,雖然粗糙,卻五顏六色,造型奇異,天然洞穴甚多,有的穿連通氣,小的洞穴如氣孔,吸水性極強,對于愛好盆景者來說,具有其神奇的魅力。
           我們來到一戶人家,但見院子里淙淙流淌,水車飛卷,浪花玉濺,小瀑濤聲隆隆,卷起千堆雪。小小的石板橋外,一邊是頗為精致的小院子,那磚雕的各種吉祥圖案,十分精美而細膩,透著一份樸實的神韻;一邊是蒼老的葡萄架,且石凳、石桌一應俱全;但見樹蔭蔥蔥,呈現出一派北國江南的秀麗景象,恰似一幅“小橋、流水、人家”的天然畫卷,讓人看來十分愜意。我就想,在這里或賞花賞月,或枕水而眠,定是美夢連連,怡然自得。在泉水流出的一端有一個石磨房。據說整個村子至今還保留著24臺古老的水磨、水碾,構成了又一道誘人的名片。正如壁上所書,“煙似綠帳虬編星,玉如寒石瀨澄波。”、“是懷智懷仁,此樂山樂水。”這里的確是美不勝收。更令人驚詫的是,出了村,站在路邊,回頭一望,只見鄉村,而不見泉流。
           第二站,我們來到了關城。關城位于巍巍綿山山麓。曾聞獅垴山,卻不知何處,只看到距長城不遠處的山腰上書“綿山”。坐落于太行山的娘子關,曾與孟門關齊名,“左手一指太行山,右手一指是呂梁”,且素有“東有娘子關,西有孟門關”之說。這兒是晉冀的咽喉要沖,為戰國時期中山國所建長城的一處著名關隘,為歷代兵家必爭之地。據悉,大唐于此設立承天軍戍守處,唐大歷年間建“承天軍城”。宋建“承天寨”。娘子關之名最早見于金元好問《游承天懸泉》中“娘子關頭更奇崛”之詩句。明代為“承天鎮”。清增建“固關營”。因關城處于萬里長城內邊的“內三關長城”南端,有“三晉門戶”和“天下第九關”之譽。現存關城,為明嘉靖二十年(1542)所建。這一帶另有承天寨、老君洞、妒女祠、烽火臺、點將臺、洗臉盆、避暑樓等十多處,傳說為唐太宗的妹妹平陽公主駐防時所建。
            娘子關,原名“葦澤關”。關于娘子關這個名稱的來源,還有不少美麗的傳說。據悉,明代顧祖禹在《讀史方輿紀要》中說,凡“婦人服靚妝”經過妒女祠時,“必興雷電”,大發嫉妒,故為妒女,因此得名。《元和郡縣志》則說,春秋時晉國介子推的妹妹介山氏,百日積柴而一日焚死綿山,后人為之筑妒女祠。另一個傳說,是平陽公主曾率娘子軍在此鎮守,并創建關城,故名。平陽湖,也是因此而得名。然而這些都無信史可考究。
           踏著光亮如鏡的石道走入娘子關,一不留神就會滑倒。那石道上的石塊,不僅閃閃發光,且坑洼不平,宛若龍鱗,卻并不齊整。仰頭望,眼前的這座娘子關,有東、南關門兩座和長約650米的城墻。古城堡依山傍水,居高臨下,氣勢磅礴。東城門為磚券門洞,又稱外城門,魁偉堅固,門洞上方鐫刻“直隸娘子關”。上有平臺城堡,似為檢閱和瞭望之用,且蔚為壯觀,確有一夫當關,萬夫莫開之勢,十分險要。關外古道,蜿蜒起伏,為著名的燕趙古道。南城門,也稱內城門,下為磚券,上為門樓,青石筑砌,高聳入云,氣宇軒昂,堅厚固實。復檐懸有“天下第九關”匾額,雄偉高大,奇峻壯闊。建于門洞之上的“宿將樓”巍然屹立,相傳為平陽公主聚將之所。門洞上額顯赫書“京畿藩屏”。城樓石柱鐫刻有兩副楹聯:“雄關百二誰為最,要路三千此并名”、“樓頭古戍樓邊寨,城外青山城下河”,充分描繪出這座古關名隘的獨特風貌和秀麗天成的奇絕。關城東南側,長城依綿山蜿蜒,巍峨挺拔。關城內還有關帝廟、真武閣等古跡。街道、民宅仍保持著唐代風貌。據說娘子關東門里,桃河岸邊,有處磚砌石臺,相傳為平陽公主的點將臺。憑此而望,不禁溯懷吊古,娘子關與巾幗英名共存,一直延續至今天。聞名中外的娘子關,久經歷史烽煙,依然巍聳不倒,真不愧是華夏的瑰寶。這古城堡,背依高接云天的嵯峨綿山,面臨澗壁如削的萬丈深峪,山腰的垣堞,隨山勢蜿蜒,桃河環繞其西北,曲折奔流,真是“襟山帶水,金城湯池”,整個關城兩翼是依山勢蜿蜒起伏的長城,險山、河谷、長城顯然為晉冀間筑起了一道天然屏障。都說不到長城非好漢,那你想不想來呢?
           我們第三站,來到了娘子關瀑布。我們沿曲徑下到桃河河谷,并沿著曲曲彎彎的小道或棧道前行。俄兒,來到了一大瀑前。抬頭望,只見瀑布宛若一匹白練從天飄然而降,也宛若一匹白練懸空掛在石壁前,形成高達十幾丈的飛流。在下跌中,時而急流直下,時而為頑石所阻,水石相激,濺起浪珠空蒙,四處飄灑散漫,并迸發出雷鳴般的聲響,而震耳欲聾。那被水煙云霧籠罩下的一片迷蒙峽谷,在陽光的照射下,形成了道道彩虹,橫跨深谷,絢爛多姿,蔚為奇觀。這般瀑布競流、泉溪爭鳴的清麗秀幽之景,憑添了多少嫵媚。難怪元好問,游覽于斯禁不住寫下了長詩《游天懸泉》。詩曰:“詩人愛山愛澈骨,十月重來犯冰雪。懸流百里行不前,但覺飛湍醒毛發。......并州之山水所洑,駭浪幾轟山石裂。只知晉陽城西天下稀,娘子關頭更奇崛!”
           娘子關有多處飛泉,山坡谷中泉眼累累。妒女祠下的這“懸泉”最是聞名,又稱娘子關瀑布、水簾洞瀑布,宛若是一個風光綺麗,富于幽趣的仙境。瀑布寬約10米,落差近40米。順懸崖峭壁而下,飛瀑奔瀉,懸流百尺,散縷似珠,形成了一幅絢麗的“水簾瀑布”,如噴珠散玉直瀉谷底。瀑布旁有“趵突泉”突突噴涌,并有諸多小“趵突泉”相映襯。一股股水流噴吐冒出,浪花紛飛,日夜不息,常年涌流,令人嘆絕。古往今來,不知有多少文人墨客紛至沓來,留下了許多膾炙人口的詩篇。明代王世貞就有詩贊云:“噴玉高從西極下,擘崖雄自巨靈來。”瀑布前,一立石上,龍飛鳳舞地刻書著郭沫若的《過娘子關》:“娘子關頭懸瀑布,飛騰入谷化潛龍。茫茫大野銀鋤陣,疊疊崇山鐵軌通。回顧陡驚溶碧玉,倒流將見吸長虹。......”的確,在這塊熱土上,水簾洞瀑布算是第一瀑了。如今在這一帶,已就地修建了水電站,既用于發電,又可用來灌溉,更增添了幾分現代色彩。
            之后,我們有的人走過玻璃棧道,有的人坐氣墊船從玻璃水上漂流。俄兒,又聚而乘畫舫穿越河谷。從河谷出來,有的人又去挑戰高空索道。一路上,雜樹蔭蔭,花香鳥語,甚是怡然。在意猶未盡之時,出石榴園,過閣樓,去一觀娘子關村里的娘子軍演出。短短40分鐘的演出,我們不僅領略了鄉女的豐采,更了解了平陽公主、三皇姑、妒女等的傳奇,以及這里的才女、也是齊白石的得意弟子對家鄉的大愛,真是處處巾幗不讓須眉。不禁感嘆到,這里真是陰盛之極。有人說,山為陽,水為陰,這里有山之剛,水之柔,應是剛柔并濟,相得益彰,才是一起彪炳千秋的美事。只希望后人,尤其是男兒,謹記而努力。
            短短的一天行程,只能是走馬觀花而已。還聽說這里的社火、河燈,甚是熱鬧。但愿我能夠常來這里——看看。




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    書簽: 編輯:章妍
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